SURF ZONE

The project EXPERIMENTAL AND NUMERICAL MODELING of SURF ZONE RELATED HYDRODYNAMICS has concentrated on improving the understanding of the hydrodynamic processes that occur in the surf and swash zone of beaches. A unique feature of the surf zone is that it co-exists with dynamics very different time scales ranging from the scale of turbulence to the wave ranges. These dynamics have their own mechanisms for generation, transformation and dissipation and interact to result in major energy transfers. The methodology used was based on the integration of a laboratory experimental work including high resolution measurements at different scales and using a numerical models based on equations by RANS which has integrated all scales simultaneously, and without the need for own settings or simplifications of existing models. Moreover, to help improve our understanding of the processes and our modeling capability, the project has explored the feasibility of applying the model to analyze natural beaches and simplifications and parameterizations commonly used in models currently used for natural beaches remarkable success.

Also, from the progress made in the project, it was possible for the first time a complete case analysis of the hydrodynamics of the surf zone in which effects are modeled turbulent break, the broken wave evolution, transforming waves and generating infragravity return currents, using a model which meets a three-dimensional flow and absence of simplifications for the definition of the break. Project development and scientific breakthroughs have opened a new line of work for the study of the hydrodynamics of the surf zone from non-simplified models of Navier-Stokes, both two-dimensional and three-dimensional. It has also developed a model based on extended Boussinesq equations with improved parameterization for simulating processes in the surf zone and swash, in order to make their integration in Coastal Modelling System (SMC). Sistema de Modelado Costero (SMC).

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